Venice, despite being quite completely consumed by tourism, is one of the most magical places in Italy. I’ve always loved the pairing of city and sea, and Venice is just that, with none of the beach in between. Some narrow streets lead you directly onto the water, the shadow of the buildings cut by a sudden bright openness. Gondolas drift lazily, but the gondolier is anything but lazy, perched on the stern, skillfully cutting and dragging the water with his oar. What I savored most was not my own visit to Venice, but instead how it lured my imagination towards Venice-past, a time when the city was untouched by hoards of foreigners and Venetians simply went about their lives, sailing to and fro with family, friends, and lovers.
Piazza San Marco, flanked on three sides by one building? three buildings? a corridor? repeated columns and arches in beautiful symmetry. It was enormous and I was extremely impressed.
Burano is an island about an hour boat ride away from the main island. The buildings look as if they were manifested by a child who colors very intensely and very much inside the straight lines and square windows. Its vibrancy is somehow such a contrast with the fact that it is an island. Does it make more sense or less sense for an island to have houses that look like this? I’m not sure. It was like eating candy, but for my eyes.
My only meals in Venice that are still ingrained in my (stomach’s?) memory are the ones I had at Ostaria dai Zemei. Upon entrance, I didn’t know where to lay my eyes first – the wild assortment of traditional Venetian cicchetti or the walls, which were covered in print photographs of people, and upon closer inspection, twins. Turns out, the founders are twins! I ordered at the bar, surveying my options and deciding on three: cod cream, pistachio cream and pecorino, burrata and grape tomatoes. I probably took one bite and then immediately had a vision of myself in my future apartment, kicking it back with friends, dishing out platters of these like the best damn hostess, glass of wine in hand. I came back here again the next day.
It rained on my last day, and so I decided to spend some time in the Peggy Guggenheim Collection inundating my brain with art and staying dry at the same time. Here are some pics of pieces I enjoyed
Finally, a tribute to the people, dogs, and cats of Venice